Blinded for Simian Reasons: The Challenge of Seeing God

A Happy New year to Everybody!

I hope that everyone had a great start to this new year. I know that I did and so did Arsenal FC as they defeated Newcastle on January 2. Football rantings apart, the year has been good so far (4 days and counting) and I hope the next 362 are just as good.

Rewinding by a few days (or shall I say to last year), I had the opportunity to visit one of the holiest places for Hindus - the land that is renowned for Krishna leela - Vrindavan.

Our first stop - The ISCKON Temple

A nice and neatly built marble structure, this temple is a refuge for all those who seek calm from the deafening din outside in the bylanes of Vrindavan and the world in general. It has a calming effect on the mind and one can sit for long listening to the melodious devotional hymns of the bhakts. We spent some time seated listening to these wonderful tunes.

At ISCKON Temple (I have my spectacles here)

The second stop - The Bankey Bihari Temple

The area takes you back a few centuries as you traverse through narrow zig-zag lanes to reach the Bankey Bihari Temple. It seems caught between the ancient and the modern with sadhus quietly lounging on one side and e-rickshaws trying to navigate the squeeze through on the other. The throngs of devotees are scary and only a brave heart can hope to navigate the crowd to get to the statue of the deity. We were not so fortunate and had to rely on long distance worship as the crowd at that particular hour was an impregnable wall of bodies and so we paid our respects from our own particular vantage point.

The third leg - NidhiVan

This van i.e. forest holds 16,000 pairs of Vanatulsi trees, wherein each member of the pair is intertwined with the other. Legend holds that Lord Krishna appears  along with Radha and gopis after sundown and the forest witnesses Krishna Leelas each night. No mortal being - human or animal remains on the premises after the evening aarti and those who have are either driven mad by the divine proceedings that they see or die. The priest also places two items each of daily use after evening aarti before leaving and these are found as if used in the morning. We even danced for a bit here by holding hands and going in circles and yes laughed a lot during the entire walk(you are supposed to laugh here). This was probably the best leg of the entire trip complete with a legend that coaxed one's curiosity. I would definitely dare to spend a night here.

At Nidhi van (No glasses!)

The final stop- Nandgaon Temple

This temple is adjacent to a tree on which Lord Krishna is said to have played his flute on (I should have taken my flute to Vrindavan!) . What struck me as being relatively off was the 'donation scheme' for the temple. Donations though subject to the wishes of the devotee, in technical terms, were quite different here (subject to subtle coercion). The priest only accepted denominations of 365, 665 and higher! Moreover, when 400 were given, the person taking donations refused to return the 35. So much for worship and service.

Thus, ended half a day long stay at Vrindavan, the place where Lord Krishna is said to have spent his childhood. The naughty Krishna that is identified as being the makhan-chor is the one identified with this place and so is the Krishna who fought the huge multi-headed serpent in the depths of the Yamuna. 

Coming to the title, before I end, while the land boasts of being the home of Lord Krishna, the trees and buildings are definitely the abode of monkeys. These sly creatures are a pain for tourists and we were warned to take off our spectacles before proceeding with the journey. I did and spent the best part of my time trying to figure out what I was actually seeing in the distance relying mostly on the inner eye (for divine sight). Throwing all courtesy out the window, I frequently nudged the person beside me to tell me what we were actually seeing or whom were we worshipping! It was only when I got into the car towards the end that I was able to put on my spectacles. So yes, seeing God definitely proved to be a challenge for me at Vrindavan!

What we missed: Prem Mandir, Govardhan Parvat and 1-2 more places scattered in and around Vrindavan. I hope I complete them during my next visit with glasses or at the very least contact lenses on.

Making the pilgrimage!

Its only been 10 days since my latest pilgrimage to the Vaishno Devi shrine in J&K and I am yearning to step out again and go on another such journey. I love going to holy shrines. Don't worry I am not a radicalised Hindu bigot (certification still needed!) but there are plenty of reasons I enjoy going to such places. For now, I'll keep my focus to Vaishno Devi

First, its the journey that makes it worthwhile. Climbing 12 kilometres to the Bhawan (from Banganga) and then 1.5 additional kilometres to the Bhairon Baba Mandir is an experience in itself. You go on driven by 'the call' of Jai Mata Di . Even the normal Namaste and Hellos are transformed into salutations of the Goddess. The atmosphere is electric as one passes devotees whether on foot, on horseback or in palkis. Moreover, it gives one ample time for solitary contemplation. The mind is at peace and one can probe the matters that trouble or cause irritation within. The feeling of tranquillity is unparalleled. A good occasion to trigger an epiphany perhaps!

Next, is the location. Nestled in the Himalayas, you are treated to the relatively clean atmosphere of the area (barring the constant smell of horse dung). Add to this the beauty of the mountains and you have definitely hit jackpot.

Finally, its the experience as one sees the representation of the Goddess in the Bhawan. My favourite though, is the crawl through the Garbhjoon at Adhkuwari , which lies midway between the Bhawan and Banganga. The width of the passage can easily scare off even the bravest as transit through it seems impossible at first look. But people are able to slide through the 24 foot passage with relative ease and with the image of the Goddess in our minds. The feeling of completion as one reaches the 'summit' of the pilgrimage at the Bhairon Baba Mandir makes you feel pretty good about the accomplishment. Well of course, the journey back to the base remains!

After Darshan at Adhkuwari

A little rest after Darshan at the Bhawan

Waiting for the others to catch up with us at the Bhairon Mandir @ 1 am in the night!

The return journey is a 12 km walk down relatively steeper slopes to Adhkuwari (via Saanjhi Chatt) and then onward to Banganga. It is this journey that takes a toll on one's joints.But, you carry through. Its better to walk on foot than use a horse. The walk finally ends at the gates in Banganga and the pilgrimage at the gates of your home.

I hope to go there again soon!

Jai Mata Di!

The Day I Walked Out on Everything - My First Solo Backpacking Adventure!

Plagued by a persistent itch to getaway from everything normal and mundane, I decided to step out and lose myself in the beautiful vales of Himachal. Even though my search for a companion yielded no results from all quarters, my ambition had already taken shape. I set off for this adventure all alone. This, I believe, was one of the best decisions I had taken in a very long time. After a quick post-exam celebration, I packed my bag (it was a borrowed one, actually!) and rushed to the Kashmiri Gate ISBT.

Delhi-Kasol

The first leg of my journey was a 13-hour bus ride to Bhunter. There isn't much to expect from this stage of my trip. I was asleep for a major part only waking at the two short stops we made for meals and snacks. One thing that struck me immediately in the hills of Himachal was the utter lack of good food in the road-side dhabas. Kumaon has a clear advantage over Himachal in this respect. Try the pahadi raita with chana and pakodas in Uttarakhand, this violent combination creates a sensation that leaves you yearning for more. 

Back to Himachal now. The bus dropped me off in Bhunter and after a quick homely meal in a small restaurant, I boarded a bus for Kasol. It is nearly 30 kms from Bhunter which means a one and a half hour ride in the hills. The road follows the curves of the river and is not in a very good condition. Yet, the scenery created an expectation of better things to follow in the immediate future.

Kasol - Manikaran

The first thing that strikes you when you get down at Kasol is the crowd! All around you, people with backpacks, some Indians, a lot more foreign travelers ( a vast majority hailing from Israel) milling around with an acute sense of wanderlust prevailing in the air. The excitement that accompanies it is visible in the crowd, in their motions and their gestures. Within minutes I was discussing the trek to Khirganga with a couple from Israel. They intended to make it there by nightfall. I on the other hand, had different plans. My first task was to secure cheap accommodation, which I did after some serious haggling (emotional jabs mostly!) and was able to get a decent room for INR 350 a night (pretty good bargain right?). 

View From My Room (Neat, right?)

The bus ride had left me tired, so I decided to take a nap before exploring Kasol and the neighborhood. My first excursion was a leisurely stroll to Manikaran which is 4 kms away. Manikaran has a Gurudwara with hot spring water to take a dip in. I took a detour  to the river bank halfway to my destination. The river, still in its youthful stage, gushed violently past not caring for anything that lay in between creating a picturesque scene that is mesmerizing for the beholder.The Gurudwara is approached over a bridge, below which the river churned over rocks creating scary rapids. The hot water bath in the Gurudwara is another unique addition. The steam rising from the surface of the water betrayed its temperature and true to its appearance, the water was extremely hot! 

Enroute to Manikaran

At Manikaran Gurudwara, Notice the steam rising up from the discharged hot water

The heavens shortened my stay at Manikaran as dark clouds began rolling in slyly from behind the tall peaks. A strong breeze followed by a short but heavy shower made me take shelter first, beneath an overhanging bush and later in a man-made establishment.

Shelter during the drizzle! (Later on it it turned to heavy rain and I had to seek shelter elsewhere)

It was seven by the time I returned, giving me ample time to explore Kasol. Tea and view of the snow capped Himalayan peaks left me fresh. After several introductory conversations with various travelers and an occasional talk with the local folk, I decided to have dinner at a place recommended by a friend - Stone Garden Cafe. It wasn't something great, rather an okay-ish establishment.Dessert from the German Bakery made up for this ordinary experience as I sampled at least 3-4 of the wares on display. It is a must try for everyone who visits Kasol. A short after-dinner stroll and I was ready to call it a night around half past eleven.

Kasol-Barshaini-Kheerganga

Up early the next morning, yet I was only able to get the 9:30 bus to Barshaini. This village is an hour's ride from Kasol. The bus frequency is quite low, with the first one coming two hours before and hence this bus was crowded. I jostled for space in the aisle with a bunch of school kids and a cage with two baby-goats. The bus emptied in Manikaran and I was able to secure a seat for the reminder of the journey. 

At Barshaini, I had my brunch in a small restaurant run by two ladies who happened to cook the most delicious of meals (another recommendation). After having my fill, I proceeded to gather directions for the trek from another restaurant owner nearby. His map and a graphic description of the wonders of Kheerganga only added to my curiosity and anticipation. (He described a lot more in context with the 'wonders of the Kheerganga valley'!)

Tasty and amazing!

The hand drawn map to Kheerganga (N is Nakthan, RN is Rudranag, PD is Pulga Dam)

The trek to Kheerganga would be a 11 km long one . I sighted plenty of travelers heading in the direction of the trail and chanced to ask a group of three whether they were heading for Kheerganga. After the first few introductions, we headed off together along the trail becoming good friends in the process.

The trek begins!

Markers are available all along the route (8 kms to go!)

The trek follows a beautiful trail with sights of small waterfalls, snow capped peaks and green slopes all around. The first leg of the trek is from Barshaini to a village called Nakthan. From Nakthan, we head toward Rudranag. Here the water scoops upwards in a small cup in the rock and subsequently falls as a projectile. It is a place of worship and the last bit where the easy walk ends. The next five kilometres were the most grueling ones with an uphill trek. We ended up going round robin on the backpack with the tent. (My companions were carrying a tent and I had agreed to camp with them!) . The path is marked with several small streams rushing down from the snow melt. The cold water left us gasping when we accidentally submerged our feet (shoes and socks) while crossing one. We stopped on a number of occasions and were only able to complete the trek in 4.5 hours! (The locals say that they do it in 3!)

The beautiful hillsides

The snowcapped peaks

Rudranag

The feeling of accomplishment at the end of the trek was dwarfed by the beauty of the Kheerganga meadow. Lying in an oval -shaped valley between mighty peaks, this meadow was a lush green setting dotted with rocks and a small human settlement. After a visit to the temple at the top, our first task was to setup the tent, which we did in quick time (And in this process I learned how a tent is assembled!) . Following the completion of the above, we rushed to take a dip in the hot spring pool to ease the tiredness of the journey. As we sat in the hot water pool, the cool breeze played a good companion to the heat from the water and this combination was refreshing.

On reaching Kheerganga! The smile cannot convey the feeling!

The hot water spring pool!

Following this, I spent some precious moments of solitude (numbering some 90 minutes!) just taking in the breathtaking scenery around me. From my vantage point, I also had the opportunity to interact with a variety of other people who were headed to and fro from a gathering a 1.5 hour trek away. (I gave it a miss owing to the tiredness that had set in now). By now the sun had almost completed its southward journey. The multitudes of colors on display that came with the setting sun were a bonus. As night crept in, the temperatures dropped. We built a fire (after prolonged efforts) and I had to don warm clothes, lest the cold troubled my sinuses again. Swapping stories (And stuff!) around the fire was fun! A less than palatable dinner in the small shacks (restaurants!) was a dampener for the spirits but what followed afterwards cannot be explained in words.

Enjoying these moments of solitude!

As we lay around the fire looking upwards at the heavens, we were taken by surprise by the night sky on display. It was a new moon night and the entire sky was dotted with stars sparkling small and bright. The valley seemed entombed in a beautiful shroud of twinkling stars . We lay admiring the needlework of the Gods on the dark wool of the skies as the sound of the river rushing deep below filled the silence.  With flames giving way to embers, we too decided to call it a day around midnight.

The next morning, I was the first one up and spent another beautiful period of solitude. It was the best feeling. With no contact from the outside world (there are no cellphone signals up there except for a lucky few like BSNL) and everyone, these moments of mine seemed to stretch into eternity as I forgot all and lived another life in those moments, among these hills. 

Our shelter for the night

Another dip in the hot water pool and we bid adieu to this enchanted location. The descent was quick and we made good time completing the journey in a little over two hours. From there it was a bus ride to Kasol where I parted ways with my new found friends who journeyed on to Kullu, while I stayed back to have lunch at Evergreen, which was a good recommendation.

The morning dip

On the way back!

Kasol-Kullu-Delhi

After a final walk around Kasol, I had to wait for a long time for the bus to Kullu. The bus dropped me off at the Kullu bus station with minutes to spare. The fact that the trip was ending didn't strike me until the bus had started moving off towards Delhi. As the rain splattered the windows outside, my eyes could not leave the hills beyond. I drifted to sleep with images of beautiful vales, gushing rivers and mighty mountains all left behind in this wonderful world.

8 am I touched base at ISBT and in 45 minutes I was back to college again!

Cost of the trip : 3,950 INR (Delhi-Kasol-Kheerganga-Delhi)

The experience : Priceless!

I am itching to run away again!

Of Cannons and Things

It seems that the 'Land of the Kings' has a certain charm that has pulled me  thrice in the past year (always leaving me yearning for more!) . The forts standing high and majestic atop hills soothed by the melodies of Rajasthani music and  the scrumptious food- Yes! this is the land that dreams are made of. The land that beckoned to us last weekend.

After having postponed our sojourn from one weekend to the next, we were finally able to hit the road (figuratively!) last Friday. Our trip began on an excellent note, all thanks to the hilarious antics featured in The Interview (do watch it just for the laughs). A sleepless night behind us, we settled down to sleep at 5 a.m. on the train to Jaipur. Six hours later we were at our destination! A quick change of clothes and we were off (And hungry). Our first task was to satiate our aching stomachs. This was duly fulfilled at LMB in Johri Bazaar after a long ride to the other part of town. One huge Rajasthani meal later, we were ready to go explore the forts.

Rajasthani Thali (Hand for scale!)

We had less than eleven hours in Jaipur and we made good use of the time with visits to three forts ending up with the Birla Temple. Our first brush with the magnificence of  Rajput architecture was Amer Fort. High walls looking down upon a huge lake housing palaces and gardens - the Kings had it nice in the days of old!

Amer Fort

View from atop the Fort

The Travellers!

The sheer brilliance of wonders inside the fort like the Sheesh Mahal left us mesmerized. Add to it plenty of nooks and crannies to explore and we spent quite some time exploring the fort. Our joy had to be cut short as time was running out and we directed the autowallah to take us to Jaigarh Fort next. The fort in itself wasn't spectacular but it housed the largest cannon in the world - Jaivana and this piece of information had me all excited (ask S.!) The cannon was a monster! 

Jaivana - That is a 20 foot long barrel!

Jaigarh was dilapidated and vandalized to the extreme by seemingly romantic couples who probably wish to have their names etched into history. More on vandalism later. As the sun began to take the southward plunge, we directed our auto toward Nahargarh Fort - the one with a beautiful panoramic view of the city. True to hearsay, the ramparts of Nahargarh provided views that would have brought any photographer to his/her knees (literally!) We went around the outer wall till we reached the palace and in this way circled a good part of the fort keeping in view the amazing expanse of Jaipur below all along.

Sadly, he didn't jump!

The city through the outer wall

We were both running on low battery, hence a dearth of good pictures from Nahargarh. The craze for cannons continued here as is evident from the collage below! This was a smaller cannon placed outside the palace gates.

Cannon(ified)

The Madhvendra palace was a beautiful piece of symmetry! Symmetrical doors, halls and walkways all around made it a stunning spectacle.

Inside Madhvendra Palace

S. tired and forlorn (looking)

Roof of the Palace

As the sun disappeared below the horizon, we too descended from the hills and headed to Birla Temple. A quick stop followed by pani puri and kachori ,it was time to head to base. 

The iconic Birla Mandir

With a delicious dinner provided by a senior (Thank you sir!), it was time to bid adieu to Jaipur. The train for Udaipur left at 11 p.m. and we were now entering the second stage of our journey.

The City of Lakes - Stage II

Now , while the trip to Jaipur had been planned by us, the itinerary of the Udaipur leg had been graciously spelled out in detail by a friend of S. So, after a ridiculously expensive breakfast, we walked to the City Palace, Udaipur (Note: S. and I walk a lot and normally treat a 5 km distance as walkable). The City Palace though boasting a beautiful construction turned out to be a tad too boring (it being a museum!) It was good to walk around though (in search of the Hawa Mahal!)

City Palace (Just look at this beauty!)

Inside the City Palace, Lake Pichola in the background

This was followed by a trip on the Karni Mata Ropeway. A temple, a dargah and an abandoned fort atop a hill provided us with plenty of photography material. The view of the city especially Lake Pichola was magnificent from the ramparts of the fort. As we contemplated descending the hill using the outer wall of the fort instead of the rope way, P. arrived and the plan had to be cast aside. (Sadly or not so!)

At the Karni Mata mandir

P.'s arrival infused new energy into the trip and the fun continued during lunch by the Fateh Sagar Lake and in Nehru Park (where we swapped stories about things and stuff and were 'brozoned' by a couple of ladies, that is the correct term I presume.) Nehru Park and the Fateh Sagar shore provide quite a sight in the evening characterized by a soothing and peaceful scenery. After a midway retreat to Fateh Sagar (on account of having forgotten P.'s luggage) we reached Bagore Ki Haveli for the evening cultural show.

Nehru Park

Boat ride back from Nehru Park

At the shores of Fateh Sagar

Yeah, he is trying to eat the Sun (or something)

Bagore Ki Haveli - Cultural Show

The traditions and folk culture of Rajasthan was epitomized in this hour long collection of displays that began with the favorite Kesariya Balam and included a Kathputli dance. The audience comprising of multiple nationalities all swayed to the beautiful tunes of Rajasthan in synchronicity.  This was the highlight of our day.

While you are in Udaipur you cannot miss the Chowpatty at Sukhadia Circle where scrumptious food is available till late and we were sure to try this out. A four kilometre long walk succeeded this. It was safe to say that at the end we were tired (Dead tired in P.'s case) but happy as we settled down to sleep.

The last day though unplanned had two items on our list - Sajjangarh Fort and a meeting with our 'absent' yet extremely helpful guide! The Fort situated again on top of a hill had roads that reminded me of the turns of the hills of Kumaon. It was the Nahargarh to Udaipur with a bird's eye view of the city and the surroundings.

Sajjangarh Fort

Look at the view beyond - both Lake Pichola and Fateh Sagar are visible

A two hour long stay on top of the hill , with echo calls (not exactly successful!) was a brilliant one. S. was intent on endangering the 'last of his kind' (pun intended!) as he climbed on edges and ledges all around the fort. P. on the other hand was looking to socialize. Apart from our private eccentricities (sadly there were no cannons for me) we had an enjoyable trip to the Monsoon Palace.

Our penultimate port of call was a meeting with our guide, who was unfortunately unavailable to join us for a meal afterwards.A meal was lost and another found as we reached the suggested restaurant too late (It was 4:20 p.m.) and were lucky to find another - Cafe Satori nearby.

It was time to say goodbye after this meal but not without some further action. Running late, we asked a young and energetic autowallah to drop us at the railway station (S. and me) and bus depot (P.) . He certainly had nitro boosters installed for we zipped across the city (clinging on for our lives) and though we were able to reach the railway station on time, the bus had departed by the time P. reached the bus depot. What happened with P. afterwards is a tale for another day.

At 6:15 p.m. as the train left the Udaipur railway station, we peered out to get a glimpse of the city - a marvel in its own right and as the darkness took over the scenery, we could only hold the thoughts inside and find contentment in the happiness of the weekend past.

At Hazrat Nizammuddin 6:40 in the morning!

The next morning we woke to another reality, it was Delhi again! Plenty to look forward to after a refreshing trip. It was time to go and man the cannons now. While I focus on the journey and struggle that lies in the days ahead, a part of me wishes to head back and venture out once more into this amazing land called Rajasthan.

To Udaipur

A city magnificent, riddled with lakes
Thank you, for the beautiful memories.
the calmness and contentment, one takes
the joy, the happiness, the sweet hazelnut coffee.

Thank you lady, for the plan -so perfect
We missed yet plenty to look forward to.
I bet there is some of it lying unchecked
To discover; next time we'll get those few.

The forts, the lakes, the palaces and food,
Dear Rajasthan, thank you too.
Another  page to my memoirs glued,
To be cherished and daily felt anew.



Until we meet again!


P.S. Special thanks to K.M. for her suggestions regarding Jaipur.