As winter has come knocking on our doors here in the great plains of India, I am reminded of our trip to Almora-Ranikhet last year. The thrill of the Himalayan winters can only be rivalled by the epicurean delights of the region, a place that I am a native to!
Last year presented a special occasion. Mother had the opportunity to visit the place where she spent her childhood - Kailash Hotel , Almora. We took to the busy bazaars of this hill town this day to search for a sweet dish that mother remembered from her childhood - the gulgule. Now, as expected the area has changed in the more than 30 years that have passed. Old shopkeepers that mother used to know have been replaced by their sons and grandsons! Ancient buildings have given way to the suave and modern architecture of today. Landmarks of yesteryears are few but still prominent. Yet much to our chagrin, the gulgule have disappeared from the markets. We searched high and low that day only to be presented with gulab jamuns and pedas but no gulgules. The near hour long walk yielded no results.
It was with dejection that we returned to the home that we were staying in. No shopkeeper that we encountered in Almora had even heard about gulgule! But, luck smiled the next morning (or did not, as we missed an amazing snowfall that began hours after our departure!) as on a short stop at Karbala (A small hamlet downhill from Almora) we sighted gulgule carefully put on display at a local tea stall. There they were all glistening in the sweet sugar syrup that they had been earlier dripped in. Success was achieved. We got a few packed and brought them all the way to Haldwani.
and true to the description that we had been treated to by mother, they were an amazing delight for our sweet buds.
A few months passed and we had the chance to visit Almora again. Guess what, we brought gulgule all the way back to Faridabad this time!
Though the calories may look forbidding for the health conscious, they are good for 'cheat day' Hope you have a great time discovering the gulgule!
Locations in the post:
Location shown with reference to New Delhi and Nainital |
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